Cygnus 27

(Grand Rapids, MI) Earlier this year a friend mentioned that Cygnus 27, perched high atop the Amway Grand, offered a Sunday brunch. We checked out the enticing menu online then made reservations (courtesy OpenTable.com, of course), looking forward to a respite from our usual dinner plans. It had been nearly 8 years since we'd visited the restaurant and were looking forward to the new design...

He Fed:
The valet is packed, with cars lined up in the road, so we park our car instead in the garage across the street. It's a brisk day but we are soon inside the lobby of the hotel, trying to remember where the elevators are for Cygnus. We guess correctly and ride alone up to the 27th floor. A large group is waiting to be shown to their table, but the hostess offers to take our coats. There is the all-too-common awkwardness at the hostess stand while they try to find our table and more people come in behind us. Soon enough, though, we are shown to a small table with a good view (although not the window-side table I had requested online).

Immediately, before our server can arrive, we hear a loud noise. SQUAWK! What the hell is that? I wonder. A minute goes by and it erupts again. SQUAWK! It is very loud and apparently coming from a small area near the rear of the restaurant, where a large family is enjoying brunch. SQUAWK! Evidently one of their kids is "special" and announcing frustration whenever no one is paying attention. Juliet and I look at each other, thinking the same thing. Should we just leave now?

Our server arrives at just the right time, offering sparkling water, coffee, and cocktails. It is noon! The squawking child acts up a few more times, but eventually they leave. Meanwhile, I proceed to work my way through the champagne drinks: kir royal, mimosa, bellini. They are decent and do much to soothe the aggravation caused by noisy children. Plus, they are free with the purchase of brunch!

In addition to the standard buffet-style selections (omelette made to order, blah blah blah), Cygnus offers small plates. This is what drew me to make reservations in the first place because I'm not a lover of buffets. I ask our server to bring us one of each of the 6 small plates; instead, we each receive a larger plate with the 6 offerings on it. Not quite what we were expecting, but it is convenient. Excitedly, we burrow into the dishes.

The grilled beef tenderloin brochette is a dry lump of meat on a skewer that has been grilled with some vegetables. I am not impressed with the overcooked beef. On the other hand, the pheasant stew is nearly a cassoulet, with rich fowl dressed in navy beans, celery, carrots and very crunchy chestnuts. It's also somewhat overcooked (mushy) but flavorful. In a surprise turn of events, the lemon pepper walleye over saffron rice pilaf is tender enough to melt in your mouth.

I most look forward to the BBQ pulled pork tenderloin served on a blue cheese biscuit. The sauce, unfortunately, tastes like store-bought and I can barely detect any blue cheese. Disappointing. Prime rib is not my favorite; in fact, I usually avoid it at all costs because I can't stand all that fat. This slice, however, is pretty good though overcooked again. I think prime rib should be damn near rare. Finally, the honey glazed ham is uninspired, as is the scalloped potatoes. To be blunt, any of these dishes could be improved if their temperature were a few degrees hotter. Serving brunch just above room temperature makes it seem like the food is sitting in a vat in the kitchen.

Half-heartedly, I snag a couple mini-desserts before we leave. I want to like Cygnus but coming here again for brunch just isn't in the cards. To be honest, the last few brunches I've had, here and elsewhere, were mediocre. Maybe I'm just not a brunch guy, altogether? I like breakfast and I enjoy lunch but that nether region between the two has not yielded positive results in past. That's it...you heard it here first. No more brunches for Jeremy!

She Fed:
It's been years since we last went to Cygnus. It was our anniversay and the food and service was amazing, but the decor was very dated, so I'm looking forward to seeing the place after its recent refreshening. Checking in at the hostess stand is awkward and strained. The hostess seems unsure as to what to do with us. We had reservations so it's not like we're trying to crash the party, but after she checks our coats she is clearly uncertain of her next move. After stalling for time, she shows us to our seats.

Views from the 27th floor are expansive and breathtaking, even on a dreary grey Sunday. Cygnus is light and airy with high ceilings and contemporary light fixtures to make for a "chi chi" but not stuffy vibe. Our waiter, Matt, explains how brunch at Cygnus works. In addition to six small plates on the menu, there is an omelette station, dessert bar and line of cold salads. Champagne cocktails and coffee are included in the price of brunch while there is a small upcharge for Bloody Mary and espresso drinks.

We opt to try each of the small plates first. Surprisingly, the kitchen makes us full dinner-sized plates with portions of the small plate offerings. I start with tender, flavorful ham and creamy scalloped potatoes, which turn out to be my favorite. The other dishes are nothing special. The prime rib has a dark pink center with lovely herbed crust. The walleye on saffron rice is nice, but the saffron is lost. The pheasant stew is plain and reminds me of the Campbell's canned bean soup I adored as a child. The pulled pork is the consistency of baby food and even though it's on a homemade biscuit with blue cheese crumbles, the texture is just too pasty. The final offering is a kabob of grilled red onion, green pepper and beef tenderloin. The veggies are raw and the beef is cooked past medium well.

Jeremy suggests everything is underseasoned to appeal to Midwest tastes and probably sitting in chaffing dishes in the kitchen. I agree. The small plates sound better on the menu. I leave most on my plate, holding out hope for the buffet. The chef at the omelette station is backed up and many of the dishes for hot food are empty (French toast, eggs benedict, pancakes, etc). I move on to the salad display which has greens, pasta salads, cheeses and antipasto. There is also sushi, smoked salmon, seared scallops and marinated cold shrimp. I grab a few pieces of cheese and a mess of delicious tarragon marinated shrimp.

I'm not sure what it is, nothing's really grabbing me here. Maybe Jeremy and I have become too jaded from chef's tastings and multicourse dinners. In all honesty we've never been big fans of buffets, preferring to order off the menu. Our waiter is nice enough, though a bit nervous (we discover as we leave that this is his first day serving on his own) and he certainly keeps the champagne cocktails coming.

I should mention, throughout the meal there is an adolescent girl squawking loudly in the corner. It sounds as if there is a peacock under the table and it's exceedingly uncomfortable. We wonder if maybe she has Tourette's? While I feel deeply for the girl and her family, and I am a huge advocate for diversity and inclusion, I'm not sure Sunday brunch at Cygnus is their best choice. In any case, from the awkward start with the hostess, the disappointing small plates, the lack of upkeep on the buffet and the disruptive noises, it's a negative experience all around. I was looking forward to a long leisurely brunch, but we end up leaving within one hour. I should have stayed in my jammies and made my favorite scrambled eggs with tortillas ala Edward's in NYC.

© 2010 HeFedSheFed.com

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HopCat: Jolly Pumpkin Beer Dinner

(Grand Rapids, MI) With no firm plans upon which culinary adventure we would next embark, the beer-crazy folks over at HopCat sent their irregularly scheduled email newsletter at precisely the right moment. In it, they enticed with an upcoming beer dinner featuring Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales out of Dexter, Michigan. We've had good luck with these beer dinners before; would this one live up to past experiences? We set out on a Sunday night to find out...

He Fed:
HopCat has the widest variety of beers around, hands down. They do a great job of procuring unusual local brews, and even produce some of their own. The food, however, has always been a hit-or-miss for me. Sometimes it'll be solid (like the addictive Crack Fries) and other times just so-so. Although the establishment is ostensibly a bar, it would be nice when there is a beer dinner that requires reservations with a credit card, that someone greet us and show us to our table. Instead, we have to sheepishly approach one of the busy servers and announce our presence. It's a little awkward.

Once we pick a table, our server is quick to offer a pre-dinner drink. As with previous beer dinners, some of the other attendees straggle in late so the food doesn't begin right away. No matter; we sip our brews and talk. Though no one from Jolly Pumpkin is in attendance to walk us through the beers, a knowledgeable HopCat employee acts as tour guide.

We start with Fattouch Salad paired with Oro de Calabaza. The salad is sort of a Greek salad, heavy on the red onions. I am surprised at how well the sour farmhouse-style beer matches the boldness of the onion. It is lip-smacking and dry on the palate. Together, the salad and brew make for a nice "starter" to whet my appetite for the heavier courses.

Next is Duck Egg Benedict and Prosuitto on Sweet Potato Cakes paired with Weizen Bam. The huge egg is served over-easy, oozing yolk onto the cured ham and crunchy potato base. My first forkful makes my taste buds explode in delight. After that, I only half-remember the utter bliss of that rich eggy mixture and the sour wheat of the beer, swirling in my mouth. Crazy crazy crazy good. Best benedict I've ever had, and what a surprise to see that coming out of the HopCat kitchen. Hats off to the chef for preparing an exquisite dish that matches perfectly with the beer!

I'm quite excited by the third course: Sauerbraten and Root Vegetables paired with Fuego del Autono. The beer is golden red, deep and tart with just a little kick. Unfortunately, the sauerbraten is luke-warm. Something must have happened in the kitchen that delayed the dish coming out on time. Flavor is good and you can imagine the intent, but at cooling temperatures, I use the beer to wash it down rather than to enhance the taste.

After this, my anticipation of dessert wanes. A large wedge of Espresso Cheesecake topped with blueberries, blackberry, and Madrugada reduction changes my attitude. Paired with this, of course, is the Madrugada Obscura, a dark but not sweet concoction with porter-like qualities. By itself, the beer can be overwhelming, like staring into the abyss of deep self-reflection. With the creamy, buttery richness of the cheesecake and the tart, juicy explosions of fruit, the brew becomes something else entirely...a lively, effervescent cascade along the back of the tongue. I devour the dish, forgiving the sauerbraten's misstep instantly.

For some reason, I don't get down to HopCat as much as I'd like. It's seldom on my radar unless I happen to be in the area. After this meal, though, I'm much more likely to pop in, just to see what other surprises they may have in store for future.

She Fed:
As we slide into a table by the window to enjoy a little Sunday night people watching, a waiter brings us a menu and asks if we'd like to order a beer while we wait. About 20 minutes later, a HopCat staffer makes the rounds to each table to pass out the night's beer dinner menu and talk up Jolly Pumpkin, the evening's featured brewery.

A half pint of Oro de Calabaza is delivered and I enjoy a few sips while we wait for the fattouch salad, which arrives just a few minutes later. The grassy and melon overtones of the beer complement the chopped salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, red onions, feta, pita pieces and yogurt dressing. The red onion is extremely strong (could have used a soak in cold water) but the beer tames some of the sulfurous burn.

Next up is duck egg benedict with prosciutto on a sweet potato cake paired with a half pint of the Weizen Bam. The duck egg is poached perfectly and the bright yolk oozes beautifully over it all as I tuck into it. The sweet potato cake is crispy and savory (I cannot abide by "sweet" sweet potatoes), but the prosciutto has not been crisped up and it's difficult to cut. The Weizen Bam slices through the extreme richness of the egg and the hollandaise; I find myself wishing for seconds of both the benedict and the beer.

Our third dish is the one I've been anticipating since Jeremy suggested the beer dinner a week earlier. It's the sauerbraten and root vegetables. My grandfather loved German food and I have such fond memories of going to dinner with him and my grandmother at the Schneitzelbank in downtown Grand Rapids. When they closed, I actually teared up and I've never found a better sauerbraten anywhere. Maybe tonight's the night?

A half pint of Fuego del Autono is paired with the dish, which is unfortunately nearly as cold as the beer. It's not icy, but the sauerbraten itself is cold and the veggies are lukewarm at best. I know if I send it back, it will be nuked and ruined. I try a few bites and realize it's pretty good, even cold. There's only ten diners participating in the beer dinner and I'm curious as to how the chef could let a dish leave his kitchen cold? The root veggies—redskin potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots and perhaps a turnip or two—taste quite good. I actually happen to be a fan of room temperature roasted veggies. The beer is smoky and earthy and goes nicely with the sour beef and roasted veg. But it would have been so much better if the meat had been warm.

The final course is an espresso cheesecake with blueberries and blackberries and is paired with the Madrugada Obscura, a hefty sweetie-pie of a beer I discovered at an earlier HopCat beer dinner. A reduction of the Madrugada is drizzled over the cheesecake as well. The reduction is bitter and for me, it's just one component too many. The cheesecake is luscious and plays well with the beer, but I steer clear of the reduction.

This was not the best beer dinner I've had at HopCat (Short's Brewery dinner last fall was fabulous!) but the first two courses are begging to be made at home and being inspired by two of four courses is not all bad in my book. Of course, my hunt for a lovely sauerbraten continues.

© 2010 HeFedSheFed.com

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